tutti wine
Sunday, May 22, 2011

Crushed Out

You like nature, right? (We didn't say camping. We said nature.)

So do the winemakers behind these labels.

Donkey and Goat. This winemaking duo dared create natural wines on an industrial side street, heralding the urban winery movement and becoming one of its stars. Their Four Thirteen 2009—yum. A southern Rhone style blend with Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Counoise. Earthy, gamey and fruity with a hint of leather. Grapes were crushed via foot stomping.

Bonny Doon. We're crushed out on winemaker Randall Graham. Not because he nurtures grape varieties often overlooked. Not because he eschewed Napa for—uh, Contra Costa County California. His wines are philosophical. Start with Contra, a let's-sip-it-tonight field blend with old-vine Carignane, Zinfandel, Petite Syrah and Syrah.

Natural Process Alliance. SunHawk Rouge, a strikingly original field blend of 10 grape varieties, defies the norm. It's John Coltrane, as liquid. It's a blend so varied, each sip is almost an experience completely different from the sip before. Let this wine—where you can find it—take hold of your palate. SunHawk Rouge comes in reusable stainless steel canisters, which is good for the earth. Good too, for glamping.