Tuscany. Napa. Tochigi Prefecture.
[Record-scratching-double-take-sound.] Come again?
Yes, we just put "great wine" and "Japan" in the same (implied) sentence. Because that's what we're hearing about Coco Farm & Winery (tagline: Sun, Soil, and Sincerity), an intimate collective 90 miles from Tokyo whose residents have been making wine since the mid-80's.
But that, thirsty friends, is only part of the story.
It all started in the late 60's, when Noboru Kawata, a teacher working with developmentally disabled kids, saw a problem. At 15, when the kids aged out of the system, they had nowhere to go. Most were isolated and medicated. Kawata envisioned a different route—active engagement in work and community.
With some of his fellow teachers, Kawata founded a farming collective. Staff and students lived and worked side-by-side, growing mushrooms and table grapes on a steep, terraced slope. Simple living and hard work made for a happy life—but because of fluctuating produce prices, the farm struggled financially.
So Kawata turned to wine. He eventually enlisted the help of Bruce Gutlove, an American with a Masters in Oenology from UC Davis. Gutlove is still there—as are many of the original students, some now in their 70's and 80's—and Coco Winery is thriving.
Case in point: One of its wines, the Novo sparkler, was selected by master sommeliers for the Presidential toast at the G7 state dinner—the first time a Japanese wine was chosen.
Coco Farm & Winery is open for visitors year-round. They'll give you a guided tour, with tastings. After you've found your favorites, choose an outdoor table at the winery café, in the cradle of lush green mountains, where they serve the wines with local seasonal dishes. Or if you prefer to save the airfare, simply visit Coco Winery online.